Magical Whales Along Haida Gwaii

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When sailing south from Alaska, you will pass the magical islands of Haida Gwaii, formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands. Home to the Haida nation, this archipelago is filled with history and rare animal species. It is also guarded by the Haida watchers, who guard the inlets and grant permission for ships to anchor and come ashore. Once ashore, these watchers will give visitors an incredible overview of the region. 

As we rounded the tip of Haida Gwaii, the forested shoreline of the northernmost island lay wreathed in mist. At this point, we were becalmed for three solid days, inching our way forward with the drifter sail whenever we got a tiny breeze or nudge of current. On the second day, it was the type of calm where time stood still, and the sea looked golden and glassy. The ship was suspended at right angles to the water, but we also felt as though we were sitting on the curve of the horizon, making us feel like we were perched on the edge of the earth. 

It was at this point that the whales began to surface. We had heard them puffing through their blowholes all night, but they had been invisible in the darkness. Now they swam right up next to the boat, individually and in pairs, flapping their tails and occasionally leaping up through the air and smacking back down again on the surface. These were full-sized humpback whales (and possibly grey whales) which swam curiously around us, probably intrigued by this big hulk of engineless wood drifting around. Even though they were so huge and close, it wasn't spooky, but rather marvellous!! They didn't both us, and we didn't bother them as they played in the water. We watched them - us tilted on the curve of the planet -  until the sun set in a glorious flood of yellow light. 

It was definitely one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. Later in the trip we would see the black fins of orcas whizzing by, a giant chubby sea otter (which looks like a 6 foot stuffed animal, so ridiculously cute!!), curious sea lions, and all sorts of other ocean mammals. The whales was something unforgettable. 


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