Magical Whales Along Haida Gwaii
When sailing south from Alaska, you will pass the magical islands of Haida Gwaii, formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands. Home to the Haida nation, this archipelago is filled with history and rare animal species. It is also guarded by the Haida watchers, who guard the inlets and grant permission for ships to anchor and come ashore. Once ashore, these watchers will give visitors an incredible overview of the region. As we rounded the tip of Haida Gwaii, the forested shoreline of the northernmost island lay wreathed in mist. At this point, we were becalmed for three solid days, inching our way forward with the drifter sail whenever we got a tiny breeze or nudge of current. On the second day, it was the type of calm where time stood still, and the sea looked golden and glassy. The ship was suspended at right angles to the water, but we also felt as though we were sitting on the curve of the horizon, making us feel like we were perched on the edge of the earth. It was at th...