Along the Merry Way....

On the day we set sail, our new crew Jason and I rowed to the nearby village for one final supply of fresh vegetables, bread, and passage snacks – the essentials. As we neared the beach, a large swell picked up the dingy and for a split second we balanced like a leaf on the crest of a wave. Then it flipped us upside down and crashed over us. I flew out and got nailed into pebbles while the upturned dingy landed on Jason’s head. After quickly checking that he was okay, I ran back into the surf to rescue the oars, which were being sucked out to sea. Then we both hauled the dingy out of the water. Note to self:  Waves that looks small and friendly from the ship may be larger than they appear.   Streaming saltwater, we walked the sailor’s “walk of shame” into the dusty town, past a group of fishermen by the shore, who were grinning from the free entertainment. We shopped quickly, trying to politely pretend that there weren’t little puddles around our feet. After heading back to th...

On March 18th, with a ship's hold filled with food, Matt and I handed in our visas and checked out of Mexico, prepared to follow our dream to cross the Pacific Ocean. Covid-19 was only just starting to be on the radar in Mexico, and our destination of French Polynesia had no cases. Ships were still welcome, and the ocean crossing would be considered our quarantine. All seemed well (spoiler: it wasn't). As we prepared to set sail, news came over the radio that French Polynesia had its first confirmed case. French Poly closed it's borders immediately, and mandated that all arriving ships would have to depart after restocking. Otherwise, crews would be deported and flown home to their countries. The entire South Pacific closed its doors, including New Zealand and Australia. With most of the borders in Central and South America closed as well, we hurriedly checked back into Mexico, just in time. Our new plan: spend the summer in the beautiful Sea of Cortez, eating through o...

When sailing south from Alaska, you will pass the magical islands of Haida Gwaii, formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands. Home to the Haida nation, this archipelago is filled with history and rare animal species. It is also guarded by the Haida watchers, who guard the inlets and grant permission for ships to anchor and come ashore. Once ashore, these watchers will give visitors an incredible overview of the region.  As we rounded the tip of Haida Gwaii, the forested shoreline of the northernmost island lay wreathed in mist. At this point, we were becalmed for three solid days, inching our way forward with the drifter sail whenever we got a tiny breeze or nudge of current. On the second day, it was the type of calm where time stood still, and the sea looked golden and glassy. The ship was suspended at right angles to the water, but we also felt as though we were sitting on the curve of the horizon, making us feel like we were perched on the edge of the earth.  It was at th...

It's very difficult to put certain adventures into words, but here are a few that sum up this marvellous voyage for me - beautiful, wild, surreal, tough and freeing. In total, we sailed 1252 miles in 12 days from Ketchikan to Port Townsend, heading quite far offshore around the outside of Haida Gwaii and Vancouver Island to avoid some gale-force winds (spoiler alert: we dodged one gale, but hit another). The good ship Ziska is a beautiful 38 foot gaff-rigged wooden sailboat. It's over 100 years old and has been completely rebuilt.  I joined Ziska up in Ketchikan, Alaska, after the captain put out a call for crew to help sail the boat back home to Port Townsend after the Race to Alaska . While we were waiting to depart in Ketchikan, I started to hone my sailorly skills, learning how to self propel myself up the mast with rock-climbing gear (swinging around at 100 feet is terrifying, but also my favourite place to be on the boat!), how to tie reef knots in the sail and coil rop...

Well, after more than a year of not posting, I've suddenly gotten the urge to write. Maybe it's because I've had some spectacular adventures in the past year! A new job as a grant writer and communications manager at a women's shelter - it's a feminist organization, and working here has been so good for the heart. A new home with an old room-mate after going head to head with a corrupt landlord. Getting my scuba diving certification and becoming a racing crew with the Canadian Forces Sailing Association. Exploring Botanical Beach at low tide! Then this November, the spectacular 1,000-mile sail from San Diego to the Sea of Cortez. This sailing adventure was a dream come true. In the months before I even knew the trip was happening, I had the urge to put up a poster on the wall that said, "You Shall See Wonders." And we really did! More in subsequent posts....Sailing with the wonderful skipper Matt, who taught me so much about sailing and was kind, good-na...