A Year in the Coast Guard
The idea of joining the Coast Guard was first planted during a wild and beautiful sail on a one-hundred year old boat, Ziska, that I helped bring home from Alaska to Washington in 2019. During this voyage, many distress calls came over the radio - especially in the north - and we heard the Coast Guard talk people through very difficult situations. It was comforting to know that the Coast Guard was close(ish) by. When we were further offshore and hit by rough weather, it was harder being out of range of help. After this trip, I started volunteering for the nearby Royal Canadian Marine Search and Rescue station, and we sometimes did training operations with the local Coast Guard station. This sparked my interest even more.
I had been working for the provincial government for three years - great work with wonderful people - but after some big personal losses, I really felt the need for a change. I submitted my application to the Coast Guard and forgot about it till I got a phone call invitation to an entry training program. I didn't even take a second to think....Heck yes!!!
Now, a full year later, there are many things that I am soooo grateful for. There are some very hard things too, but I will get to those later...
Number one is that this job has satisfied my heart and soul!
Other perks.....
Travel and seeing incredible sights: As new CG, we get moved from ship to ship until we find a permanent home. You get an email or phone call - sometimes on the day of your deployment - telling you where to go. Be at a certain place, catch a bus that will take you to a small charter plane or a helicopter (yes, helicopter in the Arctic!) that will get you to the ship. Have your gear packed and ready. It's very exciting and feels very James Bond.
The work: The work we do is fascinating and always interesting, but like anything, with enough repetition it becomes normal.
Our primary mission is always Search and Rescue, but we also fix and replace giant ocean buoys, carry out scientific missions, do ice-breaking missions in the north, and assist with archeological operations. One of my ships, the Wilfrid Laurier, carried the archeologists who re-discovered Franklin's ill-fated ship, the Erebus, that was lost trying to find the Northwest Passage. I say re-discovered because the Indigenous people always remembered where the wreck was, but no one listened to them until 2014.
Some of my favorite work is helping the scientists deploy their instruments for sampling water, salmon and krill. Our ship the Franklin even has a retractable keel that the scientists attach instruments to and then lower into the water for testing and measuring.
We learn to drive the fast rescue craft, which get lowered on wires from the mother ship into the bouncy ocean waves. These rubber boats can get to a distress call very quickly, while the ship, carrying the hospital and supplies, catches up behind. Adventure becomes so normal in the Coast Guard, that you find yourself thinking "I wonder what's for lunch," rather than, "Oh my gosh, I am steering a giant ship through a remote channel in BC," or "I'm climbing between two moving boats to simulate boardings."
A lot of our duties also involve standing night watch and steering on the bridge, and of course, there is a less glamorous side. We are all assigned night security rounds and cleaning duties.
The time off: With the Coast Guard, you work 28 days on (12 hours a day) and then have 28 paid days off. The on-time can be long and exhausting, but the off-time is incredible. I have been travelling and crossing items off my bucket list like crazy. Also, there is a lot more time to visit family, which I was really missing.
Now, a full year later, there are many things that I am soooo grateful for. There are some very hard things too, but I will get to those later...
Number one is that this job has satisfied my heart and soul!
Other perks.....
Travel and seeing incredible sights: As new CG, we get moved from ship to ship until we find a permanent home. You get an email or phone call - sometimes on the day of your deployment - telling you where to go. Be at a certain place, catch a bus that will take you to a small charter plane or a helicopter (yes, helicopter in the Arctic!) that will get you to the ship. Have your gear packed and ready. It's very exciting and feels very James Bond.
During a patrol, we go to wild, incredibly beautiful places along Vancouver Island and the B.C. coast, right up to the Alaska border. We've anchored in desolate sounds and bays, visited remote hot springs (thank you, captain!), and sailed by the Jurassic-park like cliffs of Cape Scott in the north of the island.
There are days when pods of whales and orcas dive around the ship or furry little islands of ocean otters - all holding hands - float by. I am often struck by the thought that so many of these things can only be seen from the water, as there are no roads here. Dizzy with sleep-deprivation (more on this later), it feels like a privilege to be there.
There are days when pods of whales and orcas dive around the ship or furry little islands of ocean otters - all holding hands - float by. I am often struck by the thought that so many of these things can only be seen from the water, as there are no roads here. Dizzy with sleep-deprivation (more on this later), it feels like a privilege to be there.
The work: The work we do is fascinating and always interesting, but like anything, with enough repetition it becomes normal.
Our primary mission is always Search and Rescue, but we also fix and replace giant ocean buoys, carry out scientific missions, do ice-breaking missions in the north, and assist with archeological operations. One of my ships, the Wilfrid Laurier, carried the archeologists who re-discovered Franklin's ill-fated ship, the Erebus, that was lost trying to find the Northwest Passage. I say re-discovered because the Indigenous people always remembered where the wreck was, but no one listened to them until 2014.
Some of my favorite work is helping the scientists deploy their instruments for sampling water, salmon and krill. Our ship the Franklin even has a retractable keel that the scientists attach instruments to and then lower into the water for testing and measuring.
We learn to drive the fast rescue craft, which get lowered on wires from the mother ship into the bouncy ocean waves. These rubber boats can get to a distress call very quickly, while the ship, carrying the hospital and supplies, catches up behind. Adventure becomes so normal in the Coast Guard, that you find yourself thinking "I wonder what's for lunch," rather than, "Oh my gosh, I am steering a giant ship through a remote channel in BC," or "I'm climbing between two moving boats to simulate boardings."
A lot of our duties also involve standing night watch and steering on the bridge, and of course, there is a less glamorous side. We are all assigned night security rounds and cleaning duties.
The time off: With the Coast Guard, you work 28 days on (12 hours a day) and then have 28 paid days off. The on-time can be long and exhausting, but the off-time is incredible. I have been travelling and crossing items off my bucket list like crazy. Also, there is a lot more time to visit family, which I was really missing.
There is a saying that you trade chunks of your time - your life, essentially - for money, and this is true. The CG has given me time - my life - to chase more of my dreams and passions, including writing.
Forced money and TV cleanse: For one whole month, you can't just nip over to the coffee shop or try out a new restaurant. While you can impulse buy on Amazon, there will be a month-long delay until you see that package, which motivates you to pause before hitting the purchase button.
Internet is not very strong, so it's another great opportunity for a technology detox. Unless you are in cell range, you can't stream Spotify or watch TV shows. You may end up listening to the same playlist on repeat, if it's the only thing you remembered to download before leaving.
Clothing: For half the year, you don't need to think about what to wear. Our uniform includes the formal blue shirts for special occasions as well as a generous allowance of warm wool sweaters, jackets, toques and t-shirts. Deciding what to wear in the morning is never a problem. When I'm on land, though, I try to wear as many bright yellows and pinks a possible to make up for a month of navy blue.
Food: The ships have wonderful cooks, and I've been pleasantly surprised at the healthy options. Cooking is something that has really stressed me out in the past, so I often get into patterns of eating the same thing over and over. On ship, the food is varied and healthy, so it's much better nutritionally. The only struggle is with sugar. Tasty desserts magically appear at every meal, so you have to exercise self-control not to completely fall off the wagon.
Forced break from alcohol: I've never been a heavy drinker, but I used to look forward to drinks with friends or a couple drinks on the weekend to unwind from a busy week. But after the months on the ship, I don't need it anymore, socially or to numb work stress. I've found my time on ship has distanced me from alcohol, and I like it! It makes it more special.
Training: You receive training in speed boat driving, search and rescue, buoy tending, bridgewatch duties, ship driving and a thousand other things. You're paid to get marine certifications that I used to save up my time and money for. And with Coast Guard experience on your resume, many other doors to marine jobs open up. This doesn't even scratch the surface of what you learn day to day from crew-mates and other seamen.
Helping others: I love being a first responder. Having lost more than one beloved person, I hope that I can have a hand in protecting others and being a source of comfort on what may be the worst day of their life.
The People: Hands down, the people are the best and most interesting part of working for the Coast Guard. This type of non-traditional profession attracts often unconventional humans. While there are a few bad apples, I've really enjoyed the company of deeply interesting and colourful individuals. At least two live on their sailboats and work or volunteer on tall ships. One is an artisan chocolatier. Another brews cider. Many have walked El Camino de Santiago in Spain. All of them are interested in travel and have unique stories. Some are literal angels, whose kindness, patience, and professionalism make me grateful to get to work with them.
Before joining the CG, I was bracing myself for some good old-fashioned misogyny. I hear it's there, but I haven't encountered it. Most jobs are a team effort in which men and women are treated equally. Sometimes there are moments when my crew-mates have poked at the edges to see how I react, or tested boundaries, but it's nothing I can't handle. Once when we were non-operational in port, a crew-mate told me that as night watch, it was my job to pick them up at the bar later with the Coast Guard truck. I took it up with the chief officer, saying I didn't feel comfortable leaving the ship under my watch to go pick up the boys. He was not impressed and said, "That is absolutely not part of your job." I felt like an idiot and a snitch at the same time.
Teasing and testing boundaries is normal, but I've been overwhelmingly supported by kind and helpful crew-mates, who have shown me the ropes and watched out for my safety. Some have loaned me their gear and others have patiently answered my thousands of questions. It is wonderful being part of a team.
There was one particularly difficult nightwatch on a long patrol where a ship-mate said, "Don't worry, Liz. If you're tired tonight, I'll have the energy for both of us." A literal angel. These kindnesses mean so much!
***
And now for the hard bits!
Long hours: 12 hours a day for a month straight. You are away from land, family and friends and this can be very difficult. You'll inevitably miss birthdays or important holidays at sea, and a lot of relationships break down over this. My first few months in the job, at least three people went through big breakups. But many others find love and end up dating within the Coast Guard.
When missing important days, everyone tries to make things special on the ship. Last year my birthday landed in the middle of a patrol, and our angelic second cook made me a very special dessert. I'll never forget it! And for big holidays like Christmas, we decorate the ship and eat a turkey dinner.
Sleep deprivation: If you're on night shift, you may only get a few hours of rest on your off-shift, depending on how well you adapt. It can be days of running on a few hours sleep, which has made me feel crazy at times. This has been by far the hardest challenge of the job. Both caffeine and melatonin intake gradually increase as the patrol goes by.
Physical challenge: Depending on the ship, it can be very physically demanding. On the buoy-tending ships, for example, you haul chain and work hard all day. In the Arctic, the deckhands climb land beacons and give them a fresh coat of paint, all the while keeping an eye out for polar bears.
Seasickness is part of this too. We go out in rough weather and many a crew-mate has been down puking their guts out. I have a strong stomach, so this doesn't bother me as much, but clambering up five flights of stairs to the bridge every hour in heaving seas takes a toll.
Mental/emotional challenge: If you're one of those people who pick up on the vibes around you, you'll feel the ups and downs of your crew-mates. This can be hard, but has mades me committed to keeping up a good energy on ship. You will work with people who are going through things or are just plain cranky or power tripping, and that can be mentally challenging. This starts to show up especially around week three of the patrol when people are getting tired and irritable. It's really important to not take anything personally.
Gossip: It spreads like wildfire on a ship, so I've made it a point to never discuss anything personal about myself or others unless it's something I'd be okay with everyone knowing.
What I tell people is that it's not an easy job. The highs are higher than your average job and the lows can be lower, but the hope is that the highs outweigh the lows.
The most unexpected gift in this new career has been my growth as a person. Most of my work over the past decade has been in writing. I didn't realize how much brain space mental work takes up (versus physical labour). While the CG is physically demanding, there are long quiet periods during night watch when I can listen to podcasts and think as I work. In the past few patrols, I feel like I have processed years worth of shit, shed layers and become a new person.
When I joined the Coast Guard, I went from being very comfortable and confident in my abilities as a communications professional to being brand new in a completely different work environment. I've learned how to paint, metal grind, needle-gun, and build rigging. I stand night watch, drive speed boats, helm the big ships and help our onboard scientists. In all this, I'm starting at the bottom, and it's humbling. With my small "a" addictions and distractions taken away, and my professional identity also stripped off, I have been left with just me. And I've found that I really like me.
I've made some big mistakes too. I once raised the Canadian flag upside down as we set sail out of the port of North Vancouver. There she was, the Sir Wilfrid Laurier, flagship and pride of the western fleet, flying free for the first time after eight months of drydock, through the biggest city on the west coast - with the Canadian flag the wrong way up. An upside down flag has certain political connotations, and as Coast Guard we have to stay absolutely neutral. Fortunately, one of the engineers caught it early, but it was one of many humbling moments.
The freed-up mental space and time for personal growth and transformation has been an incredible and totally unexpected gift. I'm a big believer in the universe guiding us at every step, especially when we don't know what to do. Our mistakes, messes and all the painful stuff in between is part of this journey and hold important gifts for us, if we're open and don't let ourselves get stuck feeling disheartened or angry. It all has a purpose, especially when we trust our instincts and intuition. Even our fractured, afraid and hurt parts serve an important part in our story and lead us to the most beautiful things.
Everything has a crack in it. It's where the light gets in.
We can go through incredibly difficult experiences in our lives, I've learned, but with support, there is gold to be found. It's not wasted. And the Coast Guard has been all the external adventure as well as the internal kneading that I needed right now, and I am extremely grateful for this time.
Forced money and TV cleanse: For one whole month, you can't just nip over to the coffee shop or try out a new restaurant. While you can impulse buy on Amazon, there will be a month-long delay until you see that package, which motivates you to pause before hitting the purchase button.
Internet is not very strong, so it's another great opportunity for a technology detox. Unless you are in cell range, you can't stream Spotify or watch TV shows. You may end up listening to the same playlist on repeat, if it's the only thing you remembered to download before leaving.
Clothing: For half the year, you don't need to think about what to wear. Our uniform includes the formal blue shirts for special occasions as well as a generous allowance of warm wool sweaters, jackets, toques and t-shirts. Deciding what to wear in the morning is never a problem. When I'm on land, though, I try to wear as many bright yellows and pinks a possible to make up for a month of navy blue.
Food: The ships have wonderful cooks, and I've been pleasantly surprised at the healthy options. Cooking is something that has really stressed me out in the past, so I often get into patterns of eating the same thing over and over. On ship, the food is varied and healthy, so it's much better nutritionally. The only struggle is with sugar. Tasty desserts magically appear at every meal, so you have to exercise self-control not to completely fall off the wagon.
Forced break from alcohol: I've never been a heavy drinker, but I used to look forward to drinks with friends or a couple drinks on the weekend to unwind from a busy week. But after the months on the ship, I don't need it anymore, socially or to numb work stress. I've found my time on ship has distanced me from alcohol, and I like it! It makes it more special.
Training: You receive training in speed boat driving, search and rescue, buoy tending, bridgewatch duties, ship driving and a thousand other things. You're paid to get marine certifications that I used to save up my time and money for. And with Coast Guard experience on your resume, many other doors to marine jobs open up. This doesn't even scratch the surface of what you learn day to day from crew-mates and other seamen.
Helping others: I love being a first responder. Having lost more than one beloved person, I hope that I can have a hand in protecting others and being a source of comfort on what may be the worst day of their life.
The People: Hands down, the people are the best and most interesting part of working for the Coast Guard. This type of non-traditional profession attracts often unconventional humans. While there are a few bad apples, I've really enjoyed the company of deeply interesting and colourful individuals. At least two live on their sailboats and work or volunteer on tall ships. One is an artisan chocolatier. Another brews cider. Many have walked El Camino de Santiago in Spain. All of them are interested in travel and have unique stories. Some are literal angels, whose kindness, patience, and professionalism make me grateful to get to work with them.
Before joining the CG, I was bracing myself for some good old-fashioned misogyny. I hear it's there, but I haven't encountered it. Most jobs are a team effort in which men and women are treated equally. Sometimes there are moments when my crew-mates have poked at the edges to see how I react, or tested boundaries, but it's nothing I can't handle. Once when we were non-operational in port, a crew-mate told me that as night watch, it was my job to pick them up at the bar later with the Coast Guard truck. I took it up with the chief officer, saying I didn't feel comfortable leaving the ship under my watch to go pick up the boys. He was not impressed and said, "That is absolutely not part of your job." I felt like an idiot and a snitch at the same time.
Teasing and testing boundaries is normal, but I've been overwhelmingly supported by kind and helpful crew-mates, who have shown me the ropes and watched out for my safety. Some have loaned me their gear and others have patiently answered my thousands of questions. It is wonderful being part of a team.
There was one particularly difficult nightwatch on a long patrol where a ship-mate said, "Don't worry, Liz. If you're tired tonight, I'll have the energy for both of us." A literal angel. These kindnesses mean so much!
***
And now for the hard bits!
Long hours: 12 hours a day for a month straight. You are away from land, family and friends and this can be very difficult. You'll inevitably miss birthdays or important holidays at sea, and a lot of relationships break down over this. My first few months in the job, at least three people went through big breakups. But many others find love and end up dating within the Coast Guard.
When missing important days, everyone tries to make things special on the ship. Last year my birthday landed in the middle of a patrol, and our angelic second cook made me a very special dessert. I'll never forget it! And for big holidays like Christmas, we decorate the ship and eat a turkey dinner.
Sleep deprivation: If you're on night shift, you may only get a few hours of rest on your off-shift, depending on how well you adapt. It can be days of running on a few hours sleep, which has made me feel crazy at times. This has been by far the hardest challenge of the job. Both caffeine and melatonin intake gradually increase as the patrol goes by.
Physical challenge: Depending on the ship, it can be very physically demanding. On the buoy-tending ships, for example, you haul chain and work hard all day. In the Arctic, the deckhands climb land beacons and give them a fresh coat of paint, all the while keeping an eye out for polar bears.
Seasickness is part of this too. We go out in rough weather and many a crew-mate has been down puking their guts out. I have a strong stomach, so this doesn't bother me as much, but clambering up five flights of stairs to the bridge every hour in heaving seas takes a toll.
Mental/emotional challenge: If you're one of those people who pick up on the vibes around you, you'll feel the ups and downs of your crew-mates. This can be hard, but has mades me committed to keeping up a good energy on ship. You will work with people who are going through things or are just plain cranky or power tripping, and that can be mentally challenging. This starts to show up especially around week three of the patrol when people are getting tired and irritable. It's really important to not take anything personally.
Gossip: It spreads like wildfire on a ship, so I've made it a point to never discuss anything personal about myself or others unless it's something I'd be okay with everyone knowing.
What I tell people is that it's not an easy job. The highs are higher than your average job and the lows can be lower, but the hope is that the highs outweigh the lows.
The most unexpected gift in this new career has been my growth as a person. Most of my work over the past decade has been in writing. I didn't realize how much brain space mental work takes up (versus physical labour). While the CG is physically demanding, there are long quiet periods during night watch when I can listen to podcasts and think as I work. In the past few patrols, I feel like I have processed years worth of shit, shed layers and become a new person.
When I joined the Coast Guard, I went from being very comfortable and confident in my abilities as a communications professional to being brand new in a completely different work environment. I've learned how to paint, metal grind, needle-gun, and build rigging. I stand night watch, drive speed boats, helm the big ships and help our onboard scientists. In all this, I'm starting at the bottom, and it's humbling. With my small "a" addictions and distractions taken away, and my professional identity also stripped off, I have been left with just me. And I've found that I really like me.
I've made some big mistakes too. I once raised the Canadian flag upside down as we set sail out of the port of North Vancouver. There she was, the Sir Wilfrid Laurier, flagship and pride of the western fleet, flying free for the first time after eight months of drydock, through the biggest city on the west coast - with the Canadian flag the wrong way up. An upside down flag has certain political connotations, and as Coast Guard we have to stay absolutely neutral. Fortunately, one of the engineers caught it early, but it was one of many humbling moments.
The freed-up mental space and time for personal growth and transformation has been an incredible and totally unexpected gift. I'm a big believer in the universe guiding us at every step, especially when we don't know what to do. Our mistakes, messes and all the painful stuff in between is part of this journey and hold important gifts for us, if we're open and don't let ourselves get stuck feeling disheartened or angry. It all has a purpose, especially when we trust our instincts and intuition. Even our fractured, afraid and hurt parts serve an important part in our story and lead us to the most beautiful things.
Everything has a crack in it. It's where the light gets in.
We can go through incredibly difficult experiences in our lives, I've learned, but with support, there is gold to be found. It's not wasted. And the Coast Guard has been all the external adventure as well as the internal kneading that I needed right now, and I am extremely grateful for this time.
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